Columbus, OH
A belated Happy Hannukah to all our Jewish friends, a very Merry Christmas to all our Christian friends and relatives -- and Happy Holidays to anyone else!

It was the starter -- and most of you know what those cost. Oh well, now we have a new starter and battery for our snowbird stint. So if no other crises intervene, we will be flying south with the birds after new year's day. Florida first, then Texas, and we will leave Texas when the weather there starts to warm up.

Columbus, OH
Will it ever end?

Friday (the 14th) -- in between storms -- we trundled up to Jackson Center to pick up our Airstream and brought it uneventfully back to Columbus.

Then yesterday (the 15th) as the latest storm got started, we had appointments at physical therapy. We climbed in the van, only to discover that there was enough electrical power to light up the dashboard, but not enough to turn over the starter. Paul kindly jumpered the van. We went off to PT, but did not turn off the engine, and on the way home stopped at a service station. The proprietor tested the battery and opined that it was puny, so he replaced it. Van started right up, so we carefully crept through the snowstorm back to the house and holed up for the rest of the day.

This morning (the 16th) the roads were much clearer than had been predicted the night before, so we intended to take the Christmas hygiene items to the prison. Once again, the dash lit up, but the engine would not turn over. Clearly, the problem was not the battery. So we are stranded here until the dealer opens in the morning. Hopefully a jump will get us going again and we can get on with life. But if this stuff doesn't stop, we're never going to get to where it's warm.

Columbus, OH
Kharma... fate... justice... the Law of Maximum Perversity???

Saturday noon October 20th we are on our way back from the gym, southbound on the main thoroughfare, well under the 25 mph speed limit (remember, this is suburbia). As we approach a side street, a little old lady in a gray Honda Accord drove right through the stop sign without stopping, just a few feet in front of us. Of course I slammed on the brakes immediately, but despite the slow speeds involved, there wasn't enough room to stop completely.

The front of the van struck the Accord right about midships, caving in both curbside doors and the post in between -- the car ended up in a sort of a "C". On the other hand, the curbside end of the van's bumper was all scratched up, and there was a puddle of coolant underneath. The usual routine -- police were called, report made, insurance info exchanged, and insurance company phoned. We went a few blocks to an auto rental near our house, then had the van towed to the dealer from our house.

From this point on there was nothing but trouble with the insurance companies. The representative we called instructed us to have the damage repaired immediately, which we were only too happy to do -- in fact, the dealer had the bumper replaced by Tuesday. But when insurance learned that the coolant leak was from the intake manifold, they refused to accept responsibility. Weeks of arguing and phoning and eventually going to an attorney, and it still isn't settled.

Meanwhile, Bobbi had incurred whiplash, and Lew's old back injury was exacerbated. That meant PT for both of us -- and we're not done yet.

It took a month to get the van back, even without any agreement with the insurance companies. As soon as we did, we towed the Airstream to the factory in Jackson Center, to be gone over before we leave on our winter trip. We just got word that it is finished, so all we have to do is find some time between our various appointments and some decent weather to go pick it up.

Needless to say, there were no short trips to Toledo or otherwise this autumn. So we really are looking forward to joining this lady on the road:

Mt Sterling OH

So we are on the road again, and Lew is dogsitting in his beloved Airstream, while Bobbi is sitting in a presentation that Scott already has warned her she will not enjoy (boring). It is just one year to the day since we were here last.



Three weeks in suburbia -- longer than Lew would like, but a big improvement over four months. But it was more than long enough to remind us why he dislikes it so. As soon as Bobbi started back to work, life became a long uninterrupted string of crises -- most courtesy of our two youngest (is 28 and 29 young???). No sooner would one crisis be diverted to a siding than at least one more appeared to replace it. So it was three weeks of tension, three weeks without a schedule (except for mass and the employment we had committed to), three weeks in which we got essentially nothing done and made no progress on the "ToDo" list. And traffic? Trapped in gridlock more than once. In short, the four of us really need this break -- already. At times, even the most boring lectures can be a relief.

The campground at Deer Creek SP (we have described it in past years) is both a relief and a disappointment. Relief because of its familiarity, relief because we have the campground almost entirely to ourselves, relief because it is dry today and not rainy. Disappointment because instead of rainy we have HOT, disappointment because in another 48 hours we will be back in suburbia. Most of all we are disappointed that the repairs which closed down the campground for all of last winter appear to have been minimal. There are some new outlet boxes, some new posts with the numbers for each lot. But the interior roads and RV pads remain cracked and disintegrating, the bathrooms fairly clean but in need of repairs (new doors to replace the ones that have rusted through, caulking and painting, etc.). Clearly, the repairs were not a big budget item; but considering the state of medical care for the poor in this state, that certainly would have been the moral choice.

Columbus OH
It is a little-known medical fact, but the only place outside central Africa where the Tetse fly occurs is in Copper Harbor. Clearly, at least one bit each of us, because since we arrived there, we regularly have been sleeping in until at least 9 each morning, and I think it is getting worse.

Thursday (the 30th) was no exception. We were late getting up, and late getting the dogs walked, late getting breakfast, and late getting lunch. However, we did spend the afternoon constructively, touring several campgrounds in the Oak Openings area of Lucas County -- all of them closer to Toledo than Sunny's.

In the evening we met again with Lew's new-found cousin Darlene and her husband Dave -- this time at the Winchester Restaurant, corner of OH-109 and Fulton Co-H. We talked for 2 and a half hours -- we were the last ones out of the restaurant. Dave regaled us with endless stories, but they were so humorous everyone enjoyed them. And in the end, Lew took their photo as well:


We left Sunny's Friday morning (the 31st). But late again, even though we did not dawdle. We went via Fulton Co-13 and M to OH-109, then picked up the old (51 yr) Ohio Turnpike into Toledo. There we exited at old US-20, made several right turns, and climbed the ramp onto I-475. It was another boring and mechanical ride on cruise control, down I-75, OH-15, and US-23 until we got to Delaware (OH). There we took the wrong exit (how often has Lew driven that road in the past 40 years?) and had to creep through the southern part of the town until we picked up US-42. Then down the old Scioto Trail to Lane Ave, and four left turns into Osborn Drive. The street was fairly clear, so docking the Airstream was anticlimactic.

Once docked, we transferred the necessities (such as food) into the house. We made a couple of phone calls to Bobbi's mother and others to let them know we were safe. We had supper, and we showered. Lew picked up the email, while Bobbi compulsively tried to sort 2 months of unorganized snail-mail.

Of course on Saturday (the 1st) we slept in, as we had for the past 2 months. But we did get to the bank and Sam's Club in the morning. In the afternoon Bobbi washed her hair in preparation for our first ASL (signed) mass in 2 months -- something we really had missed -- mass is somehow mundane in English. And it was good to see our Deaf friends again. We followed mass with our usual Saturday evening escape into Prairie Home Companion for a very satisfying first day in Columbus.

Today was the first day we broke the pattern. Bobbi was up by 7:30 and rushed to leave for FHC by 8:30. Once she had left, Lew swung into action, stripping the bedding from the beds in the Airstream and setting them aside for Bobbi to put in her washer when she returned (as she insists on doing). Afterwards, Lew took advantage of finally having a high-speed internet connection to download email and various forms of news until lunch. After lunch he exercised and caught up on his correspondance (email, that is). And finally, this blog.

So we are suburbanized again -- but briefly, because Bobbi has a professional conference scheduled the 24th and 25th of this month -- and we expect to take our home with us!

Wauseon OH
Monday (the 27th) was sort of a hectic day. We slept in till 9, as usual, then rushed around to hitch up. Then it was south down US-41 through the arcade of trees. We couldn't help but be impressed with the high proportion of red and yellow leaves, as well as the yellow leaves blowing across the road.

At Calumet, about an hour down the road, we stopped to refuel and restock our larder. Because we now were within cell phone range, Bobbi checked all our voice mails, and while Bobbi was shopping, Lew downloaded the email. He had a few minutes to try once again to phone an old high school classmate who lived in Houghton: Lou Ellyn Alexander Helman. This time he was successful, and made an appointment to meet her on our way out of Houghton (her home actually in a suburb to the south, Chassell).

Bobbi returned to the Airstream with the goodies and we quickly stowed them inside. Then it was down US-41 through Hancock and across the lift bridge, through Houghton, and on to Chassell. We met at the appointed place and took our rig a couple of blocks to Lou Ellyns lakeshore home. We easily pulled into the circular drive and went inside. When her husband Ron arrived a few minutes later, they quickly put together a substantial lunch, and we all sat around conversing about both the "good old days" as well as more recent accomplishments. Lou Ellyn had a surprisingly vague recall of events before her high school graduation. She remembered the art museum and its Swiss room well enough, but did not remember her third grade teacher, did not remember Mary Carole Spence at all (Shirley Renz had said they were close friends) and was unaware of the ethnic neighborhoods that characterized Toledo in our childhoods. She explained that they had three children: a daughter who was a family practitioner, another daughter who was an artist in Colorado, and a son -- and several grandchildren. We took photos of the two of them.


After a couple of hours socializing, we resumed our trek down US-41, MI-28, and MI-77 until we once again arrived at the Higgins Lake Family Campground and took up residence in the same lot.

Tuesday (the 28th) was boring rather than hectic. Up at 9 again, Lew walked the dogs while Bobbi prepared breakfast. We ate, cleaned teeth and dishes, stowed the few things that were out, and were on the road again by 11:10. Down MI-77 and US-2, nothing worth telling happened before we once again crossed the beautiful Mackinaw bridge. But things became more remarkable in a negative way going down I-75 and US-23 to Higgins Lake, with stops at Indian River for lunch, and Gaylord for "Wally World" -- remarkable for the humid heat that was building up. At least the vistas still were mostly wooded, and the traffic light.

We pulled into exactly the same lot at the Higgins Lake Family Campground, only at a different angle so we didn't have to bother to level the Airstream. The humid heat was stifling, so the first thing we did was to turn on the air conditioning. We were not in Copper Harbor any more, Toto.

Only after supper did we stick our heads out the door to walk the dogs and shower. But after sundown the heat and humidity abated enough for us to turn off the AC and open up the Airstream, so we had a wonderful night's sleep.

Wednesday morning (29th August) Lew actually managed to sleep in until 10! So it was a rush to walk the dogs, breakfast, stow property, disconnect, and hit the road before 11:30. But we did, and proceded down MI-103 to US-23 which we followed through the wooded landscape we so appreciated. Unfortunately, it soon was replaced by urbanization, traffic, and heat which all increased in density rapidly. And this trend continued until we turned west on Central Avenue in west Toledo. This once rural two-lane road has become a four-lane commercial madhouse where traffic barely crawls.

But the madhouse transformed fairly quickly into rural. We passed out of Lucas County into the rich farms of Fulton County, and after several miles turned south at a sign that announced "Sunny's Campground -- 2 miles south". In just a mile we could see ahead a huge collection of travel trailers to the west of the road, and turned in to take the lot that Bobbi had reserved. This proved to be a most peculiar campground -- hundreds of vacant but clean and neat trailers lined up in neat rows around several ponds and a wood lot. The grass was manicured immaculately, the bathrooms fairly clean but rather cheap in construction.

Despite the hundreds of trailers, we were almost alone in the park. Plantings and other decorations showed that the clientele leave their trailers year around, visiting them only on weekends. I'm not quite sure what they do at those visits, except get away from the city -- which I quite understand.

Copper Harbor, MI
Today is our last day here this year. Winter is coming!

The trees already are turning color here. Actually, a few maples had a few red leaves when we drove down the arcade over US-41 coming into town, but now maples all over are bright red or brilliant yellow, and other species are joining them. When we were up on Mt. Brockway yesterday, the ridges opposite us were polka-dotted with red and yellow, where only a few trees had turned two days earlier. Leaves already are dropping, and I can well imagine that by Labor Day, the green and many of the leaves all will be gone.




There are few campers in the campground, and few tourists in the town. Everything is closing down -- DNR already has laid off some of the workers. This morning at Our Lady of the Pines the priest announced that next Sunday would be the last mass of the year for Copper Harbor.

This week while walking the dogs, I saw several new piles of bear scat. So they are back for real. Soon Copper Harbor will belong to them once again -- until next July.

Today has been a bittersweet day for us -- so beautiful, so peaceful. The weather once again was perfect -- as it has been throughout our stay. Oh, how we will miss it.

But the bouy will still go bong-bong all day and all night, until we return.

Copper Harbor, MI
The bears are back! This afternoon the staff announced that two people had sighted the bears last night. So the staff started up the lectures for new campers again. We haven't seen the trap yet, but I suppose that is coming.

This noon Bobbi visited the jolly monks again. This time she took photos around the monastery:

Copper Harbor, MI
Did we say "cold"? Last night we ran the heater all night and slept under the comforter again. In the morning it was not quite so cold as yesterday, but cold enough so that the temperature within the Airstream was no more than 70. Even at 4 PM the outside temperature did not rise to 70 -- taking a shower at that time was a test of "macho". Summer definately is over in Copper Harbor -- the leaves on some maple trees already have been turning a brilliant red for at least two weeks. After Labor Day, the owner of the Berry Patch will pull out and head for Connecticut. The DNR already started laying off the temporary workers they hired for the season. 4th of July to mid-August: that is what passes for summer by the shores of Gitche-Gummi. We do not expect to see 70 again this year.

Copper Harbor, MI
Did we say "cold"? At dawn today the temperature certainly was below 50 -- we had the electric heater on at a full 600 watts (which normally keeps us warm even in January in Texas) and slept under a blanket and a down comforter. Smokey even sat out our feet. With all this we were warm enough to sleep in until 9:30, but certainly not too warm.

This was another cell phone day -- that is, at noon we went up to the top of Mt. Brockway and phoned everyone we could think of -- including trying to contact an old grade school classmate of Lew's. On the way down Bobbi took the photos she had missed the last trip up the mountain -- including Isle Royal 60 miles off and under a line of clouds on the other side of Lake Superior:


When we got back to the bottom of the mountain we had an indulgent lunch. But the lunch led to an unfortunate experience for Bobbi. Like almost everything else, dining opportunities are very limited in Copper Harbor. Now that the Mercantile has gone bankrupt, the Tamarack Inn is the only source for pasties (Bobbi's favorite meal) this side of Laurium. Here is her preferred dining room vista:


But today the Tamarack announced a new policy to Bobbi: they would automatically add a mandatory 10% "tip" to all carryout orders. Obviously they simply are dodging labor-management regulations applying to paying their employees. Since the Tamarack has a monopoly, Bobbi will (grudgingly) pay up. However, she also certainly will do something passive-aggressive to restore the balance.

Copper Harbor, MI
COLD!!! When Lew got up on Thursday (the 16th) at dawn for a potti break, the wind was blowing fiercely (30 mph +) and the temperature must have been down near 50. Lew wore full sweats over a turtleneck just to cross the street to the bathhouse. And when he walked the dogs around 9 am it was still cold enough he wished he had worn a knit cap and a windbreaker.

It was sunny again in that saphire-blue sky, so things heated up fairly rapidly, so forced us to open the Airstream. But it remained chilly, and all the campers were walking around with jackets, hoodies, or some other form of protection. The good news was that the water supply had been fixed and tested OK, so we had an unlimited supply (within the limitations of the pump).

Friday (the 17th) was worse. At dawn it was even colder than yesterday, and the wind just as strong. We wore full sweats all day, even inside the Airstream in the middle of the afternoon, and Lew in addition wore a windbreaker to walk the dogs. "Weather.com" said the high today would "approach" 60, and the low tomorrow morning, 52.

This is the middle of AUGUST -- weather in this little enclave is truly remarkable.

Copper Harbor, MI
So far, the answer has been "not much" -- and we are not complaining.

The morning of Saturday (the 11th) was idled away when Lew fell asleep. The afternoon was largely taken up by another trip up Brockway mountain to use the cell phone. Bobbi's mother had been experiencing considerable back pain, and Bobbi was anxiously following the results of mother's various medical consultations.

On the morning of Sunday (the 12th) we actually made it to church for the first time on this trip. Bobbi actually rolled out of bed early enough to make an 8:30 AM service at the little Lutheran chapel on the west side of town (while Lew dogsat), and was back in plenty of time to dogsit while Lew took in 11:30 mass at Our Lady of the Pines. This is a beautiful log mission on the west edge of the park/east edge of town.


Nowadays, where else can you find a Catholic church open 24/7, 365 days a year?

Like the campground bathrooms, the interior is very Adirondack-y:


The images inside are folklike, attractive, and most of all, restful:

Echoed in the little garden outside:



The priest from Calumet came up to celebrate. It is hard to understand how he accomplishes it all, since he is responsible for the two Catholic churches in Calumet and three missions north of there. On top of these duties, he was born and raised in southern India, and English is not his first language. But the mass was very well attended, perhaps more than 100 people.

Monday (the 13th) was another rather idle day. Lew drove the mile or so into town to get a WI-FI signal so that he could download email and financial records, and upload an update of this file. Late in the afternoon he walked to the shore of Lake Superior, just across the road, where he photographed the bell bouy (above) and the vistas along the lake.

In the middle of the night Tuesday (the 14th) morning, Saphire became sick and had a diarrhial stool accompanied by much pain. Bobbi and I were both greatly worried about her, but come morning she seemed her same old obnoxious husky self. We needed supplies that could not be obtained in Copper Harbor, so Bobbi proposed that we make our first trip "into town." So we trekked 40 miles down slow twisty US-41, first to Laurium, where we ate lunch at Toni's Country Kitchen, home of the best pasties in the UP. Then we crossed over to the west side of US-41 and Calumet. In the most northerly shopping center in the Keweenaw peninsula we restocked on gasoline, food, and sundries. Then we trekked back to Copper Harbor as quickly as possible in order to get the perishables into the refrigerator. After this expedition was finished, Lew again drove into town for another internet session.

Today (Wednesday the 15th) was COLD. Not that every day has not been cool all the time we have been in Copper Harbor, but today was COLD. We wore long-sleeved shirts even in the afternoon, and sweats in the evening. I would guess the high for the day was no more than 65.

This morning Lew went to town for another internet session to upload the updated version of this file and sent notices to relatives and friends informing them of the URL. After he returned, Bobbi decided to go into town for a fish dinner. After another dessert of Jilbert's ice cream, we continued on up Brockway mountain again. This time not only did we both make our cell phone calls, but on the way back Bobbi stopped at several different places to photograph the beautiful vistas (including views of a Lilliputian Copper Harbor). Only when we returned to the campground did she discover that none of her photos had been recorded, for some reason neither of us could ever figure out. So after supper she consoled herself with a movie (DVD).

Copper Harbor, MI
A week has passed! How could that be? We haven't done anything -- at least nothing of redeeming social value. While the rest of the country has sweltered -- including Jackson OH and even the next county, Copper Harbor has remained consistently at about room temperature -- 70 +/- 5 degrees. There usually has been a significant breeze, if not outright wind. Our activities have been basal: walk the dogs, eat monastically minimal meals, read and type, nap (involuntarily), go into "town" (a couple of hundred people including the tourists) all of a mile away to pick up a pasty for supper and a Jilbert's ice cream cone, mail cards and letters, and do our interneting. Once we drove up Brockway Mountain to get a cell signal, and of course once we visited the monks at the Transfiguration monastery to buy some jams and their monstrous, lethal muffins.

Excitement has consisted of a family of three bears (honest!) who have been hanging around the campground mooching from coolers.

The park rangers gave a "bear lecture" to every incoming camper. So every night the campers carried their flashlights when they went out to the bathroom. Plus everyone had to watch carefully where they walked -- the bear left piles of scat indiscriminately:


Four days ago the rangers set up a bear trap (it obviously had been used before) between the playground and the campsites.


At first nothing happened, but yesterday morning when we got up we learned the bear had been caught during the night and was on his way to Traverse Bay. Hopefully the other two bears will keep their distance.

Then when everyone relaxed, in the afternoon the rangers posted signs on all the water faucets around the campground -- it seems the previous day's testing had shown too many coliforms in the campground water supply. Suddenly everyone had to drive at least a half mile to get drinking water. Next the sewer macerator went out, reducing all the campers to using a couple of outhouses on the north side of the campground. Not until this afternoon did the flush toilets all become usable again.

What next?

Copper Harbor, MI
Sunday (the 5th) we slept in even later than usual: 10 AM. But because we had not unhitched, we were up, walked the dogs, had breakfast, cleaned up, and were on the road in a little over an hour. We took WI-70 and US-45 through tourist land, then crossed over into Michigan. As we did so, the tourist enterprises quickly faded away, and we quickly found ourselves once again in the land of pines. At MI-26 we were back in familiar territory and followed it until we picked up US-41 at the bridge in Houghton. Once again over the lift bridge and up the switchbacks in Hancock, then climbing steadily to Calumet, where we stopped to refuel and buy groceries at Pat's, the local supermarket chain -- last chance before Copper Harbor. While Bobbi was shopping Lew used the strong WI-FI signal to download email.

Then it was up US-41 over the copper-bearing ridge and into Copper Harbor. We deprecated the few tourists walking through the town as we passed on our way once again to the campground at Ft. Wilkins SP. Bobbi had rented lot 41 again, for two weeks (the maximum permitted), and we angled ourselves in, unhitched, walked the dogs, and read for a while. After a small supper, we went back through town to the Berry Patch for Jilbert's ice cream. We returned to the campground, and Lew spoke for quite a while with a couple who owned a 29 ft 1973 a/s -- while Bobbi read chick-lit.

Minocqua, WI
Our last day in Eau Claire (Friday the 3rd) was largely idled away. In the morning Lew read the 4th edition of "A Goodly Heritage" which Irene had duplicated for him, while Bobbi read her chick-lit. In the afternoon we visited Irene once again to get a photo of her,


and to say "good-bye". Then it was refuel, resupply ("Wally World" again), and back to the campground for showers and bed.

Saturday (the 4th) was on the road again -- up county road N, WI-27, WI-29, US-51, and MI-70 to the campground Bobbi had selected: Patricia Lake Campground. The northeastern part of Wisconsin ("north woods") is filled with a multitude of little lakes/large ponds, reminiscent of Michigan. And they seem to be a similar magnet for vacation kitsch. The roads around Minocqua are littered with shops purveying real estate, mortgages, contractors, food, souvenirs, and every other temptation to part the vacationer from his money. This campground reflects the role of destination: most of the lots are occupied by "seasonal" campers, many empty this weekend, the grounds are heavily wooded and most lots shaded, but the plumbing is elderly and less than perfectly maintained and cleaned. And while they advertise WI-FI, one must go into the office to use it. On the whole adequate, but not as pleasant as Sandy Hill, Big Cedar, or Higgins Lake. We would stay here again, but only because of the paucity of good campgrounds between Wausau and Copper Harbor.

Augusta, WI
Up late as usual on Saturday (28th), we breakfasted and disconnected quickly and pulled out by 10:30 -- back up US-41 to WI-22, where we encountered a couple of rather long detours. Then across WI-29 (which is almost as dull a drive as OH-15) around Wausau to WI-27 south to Eau Claire county ND. ND turned out to be a rutty gravel road under construction -- we proceeded at 10 mph until we finally got back to the Sandy Hill Campground north of Augusta (we have discussed this campground in past years, so will not repeat that information here). We phoned Lew's aunt Irene, only to discover that cousin Kathy had left on the 27th, so we missed her. But Irene was her usual hospitable self and invited us over that evening or Sunday afternoon.

Sunday (29th) we slept late and did the usual morning routine. So it was not until after lunch that we made it to Irene's. Her daughters Francie and Liz already were there. However, Francie had a very sick dog and left rather soon. First Bobbi asked for directions to some of the area places where we needed to go. Then we all passed on the news about the absent family members, reminisced about our visit last summer, and told them more details about the part of our trip last summer after we left Eau Claire. All went well until Irene mentioned genealogy -- at which time Liz rolled her eyes and left to do some other projects.

Irene started to quiz Lew about the Lindner side of his family, and after a while got him to go in and enter the data on her computer. Lew got started, then realized that his memory of many things was rather hazy, so fired up his own computer. At this point Irene announced that she had fixed supper, so Lew quit and joined the other two at the table. Afterwards there was only enough time to close down, and then Bobbi and Lew had to leave because sunset was fast approaching, and they had not yet downloaded their email for the day. So they drove the short distance to Panera's for that purpose, then refueled and got back to the campground with just enough time to walk the dogs before it became dark.

Monday afternoon (30th) Lew had to take the van in to Markquart Chevie to have the oil changed. While it was there, the mechanic discovered that the rear axle seals were leaking and had sprayed oil all over the brakes. This meant a substantial repair, so Lew had to leave the van overnight. The dealer was kind enough to provide Lew with a loaner (a "Silverado", a pickup with a big hood to look over and a suspension by Cadillac), so Lew drove back to the campground where he had left Bobbi and the dogs.

Tuesday (31st) we could not lie abed -- we had to be in the southwestern part of Eau Claire by 10:30 (local time) in order to have Bobbi's fractured metatarsal x-rayed. As that was finishing, Lew phoned Markquart Chevrolet to check on the truck repairs. The service advisor told him it had just been finished ten minutes before, so we could pick it up. We set out immediately for the shop. When we arrived we transferred the dogs and our bags to the van, after which Lew turned in the rental. Then Lew paid for the repairs, and we were off down US-53 towards the mall.

At the mall Bobbi went into Panera's to pick up lunch, while Lew used their WI-FI to pick up email. Then across the street into the mall, where Bobbi purchased some badger T-shirts, and back across into "Wally World". This pretty well used up the day, so it was back to the campground.

After our usual late rising and slow start, on Wednesday morning (1 August) Bobbi wanted to go into town (Fall Creek) to mail something at the post office, and to shop at Weaver's, an Amish store that specializes in bulk groceries. After lunch Bobbi did some more laundry and read chick-lit, while Lew journaled and worked on this file.

Thursday (the 2nd) was needed for some planning and organization. We rose late, as usual. Bobbi phoned Ft. Wilkins SP and discovered (as expected) that we could not get a campsite until Sunday -- so she reserved a site for the next two weeks. She than gossiped with our host and found out about campgrounds in NE Wisconsin -- not optimistic because he said they don't cater to travelers; rather, they will be full of kids. So she reserved a place at one of them for Saturday night. She decided that until then, we would stay a couple of extra days at this campground.

That settled, after lunch we all piled into the van to search for WI-FI. Weaver's WI-FI turned out to be off. In Fall Creek neither the post office nor the public library had WI-FI, or could tell us where to get it. So it was off once again to the Panera's in Eau Claire. At least that meant Bobbi could eat out for supper. But once we were finished, it was back to the campground for showers, snack, and bed.

Oconto, WI
An unremarkable day: up late, pulled out quickly, down MI-77, west on US-2, and south on US-41. Bobbi rented lot #B-13 in the Holtwood Campground, a county facility bounded on three sides by the Oconto River. The setting was beautiful, with the river and much shade from the many trees. Though it was a county facility, the majority of the sites were taken up by monthly, seasonal, or eternal campers. Nevertheless, there were plenty of sites available for the transients who wandered in.

The only negative was the "bathhouse", which actually consisted of three structures. The first held the toilets, a concrete block structure vintage 1940's -- and it appeared that campers rarely used it. Behind this was an old mobile home labelled "Laundry", which was neat and clean inside and contained 3 washers and driers. Behind this was another mobile home labelled "Showers", with male and female sides. This too was relatively clean. However, in no way did these facilities compare with those we had left behind in Michigan.

Germfask, MI
We're back at the CCC camp again.

This morning we got up late, as usual. We ran through the usual chores: Lew walked the dogs, Bobbi set out breakfast and cleaned the dishes while Lew hitched. Once more it was up I-75 and s-l-o-w-l-y over the Mackinaw bridge (to admire the beauty again) and turn left on US-2. Bobbi bought a pasty for our lunch, then we continued to MI-77 where we went up to Big Cedar Campground again. Since nothing has changed in the intervening week, no comment necessary.

This was a short day, so we arrived in the middle of the afternoon. Lew gave the dogs long walks, then sat down to puzzle out where we might stay the next two nights. Problem is, Michigan has lots of nice (albeit expensive) campgrounds, while Wisconsin seems to have leftovers. Bobbi wanted to stop at the city campground in Menominee MI the next night -- but then we would have either a very long day following, or would have to find a campground in a region seemingly devoid of civilized facilities.

Roscommon, MI
Ber-Wa-Ga-Na turned out to be the campground from hell -- or what Hunter Hampton labelled the campground from "Deliverance".

Monday (23rd) we waited around the campground for Scott and his family to show up. In the morning we amused ourselves by watching the extended family group next to us pack to leave. The family occupied four lots -- the two on our road side, and the two directly behind them. The grandparents (2 lots over) had a travel trailer with a Hensley hitch, and two of the children's families (behind) were in pop-ups. However, the third son's family (right next to us) were in a tent with the most extensive collection of paraphenalia we ever had seen on one campsite: coolers, grills, even an illuminated inflatable Homer Simpson Santa Claus (in July!), and numberless others.

On this morning we watched this last son pack every piece of tacky paraphenalia into the back of an SUV and a little wooden trailer. He packed by tossing items in willy-nilly, without discernable organization. When he was finished, the pile sat fully three feet above the sideboards of the woefully inadequate little trailer. This last son then proceeded to cover the pile with first a plastic tarp, second a cargo net, thirdly several bright yellow trucker's tie-downs, and finally an assortment of bungee cords. There was still a foldup chair and some other items on the ground -- these he put on the hood of the SUV. While all this packing was taking place, the two pubescent daughters (very aware of the attractiveness of their bodies) did nothing but run over to the pond, then sit in the SUV while their father did all the work. Mother also moved only a couple of items. Eventually the family did pile into some remaining space inside the SUV and the father slowly drove out of the park -- guiding himself by braille apparantly, since it is hard to imagine how he could see over the pile on the hood. Bobbi and Lew visualized the various elastic cords pulling the trailer's tailgate out of its two loose sockets and the entire contents being strewn on some not-too-distant road.

When this family all had departed, we had lunch and waited for Scott to bring the grandchildren out to play on the equipment. However, they did not arrive until nearly 5, complaining vigorously about the campground management forcing them to pay $3 each (including the grandchildren) to get into the park merely to pick up Bobbi and Lew. They were barely in time to make a couple of coordinating phone calls and get everyone into the vans to go to Fritz's in Richville for supper.

This supper was the first time Bobbi and Lew had seen Su's relatives (brother with older girlfriend, aunt, mother, and grandmother) in a number of years. The food was good (not great) but not heart-healthy, of course with an emphasis on (fried) freshwater fish. However, the fellowship was wonderful, and it took a full three hours for us to catch up on the news of the two families before we left the restaurant.

When Scott's family made it back at the campground with us, there was still enough light for the grandchildren to play, so they went over to the playground with Scott and Lew as chaperones (as required by the campground) and began using the equipment -- and Scott felt he was getting at least something for the $12 admission he had had to pay earlier. Then the boys announced that they wanted to use a couple of the boats provided for the pond, and insisted they had the $4 fees. So Scott sent them over to the office to pay the fees, while he disentangled two paddleboats from the retaining airplane cable. The boys returned to announce there was no one in the office, so Scott told them to go ahead with the boats and we could pay the next morning.

The boys paddled around the pond for a while until boredom set in, and were heading back to the boat rack. Suddenly someone on a golf cart across the pond bellowed out authoritatively "what do you think you are doing?". Scott explained briefly, but his explanation was not accepted, and the boys were ordered from the water. As we were walking back a few minutes later, a golf cart pulled up along side Scott and Lew. The authoritarian occupant proceeded to lecture us (authoritatively) about endangering the children and "his" liability. And without waiting for any response from us, he drove off. He never did identify himself, so we had no idea whether he was the owner, an employee, or just another one of the "seasonal" residents.

This morning (Tuesday, the 24th) we slept in until 9 AM, as usual. But then we moved to get out of the campground as quickly as possible -- walk the dogs, breakfast, clean up, and hitch up. Oh, oh, the first propane tank was empty. Ready before 11, we pulled out of the lot and headed towards the office. Bobbi paid the $8 rental for the boys' use of the paddleboats the previous evening, dropped the trash in the dumpster, and inquired their price for propane. That price being surprisingly low, we headed over to the dispensing stand. Unfortunately, two employees (admitting they were new) were unsuccessful. And being new to the area, they didn't know where any propane dealers were located.

Before leaving the campground Scott had phoned us when Brian discovered he had left a toy behind. So we had agreed to meet them at a crossroads a few miles west. When we got there, we delivered the toy and asked them about propane dealers. But neither they nor the two employees of the farm market where we stopped knew where the propane dealers were located. But Scott did suggest that we modify our route to pass through Reece.

We did so, and as we entered the town, saw Hills RV. Surely they would know where to get propane. And indeed they did -- they filled our tank on the spot.

Considerably relieved, we hurried down MI-84 to the I-75 interchange and turned north. After a relatively short ride Bobbi asked to stop at Meijer's in West Branch to resupply. We did so, then resumed our journey north while munching on chocolate-covered Donettes, our less-than-heart-healthy lunch, while the afternoon got hotter.

After another short ride we got off at Higgins Lake and headed for the campground we had just left a few days previously. Bobbi decided to stay 2 days so she could recover from Ber-Wa-Ga-Na (except for their gift of chigger bites) -- and do up all our laundry at once at the laundromat down the street. We pulled into the same campsite we had just vacated, artfully leveled and unhitched in the heat, and turned on the AC for a few hours. Exhausted, we recovered our sanity, our composure, and our breath at the Higgins Lake Family Campground. A late supper and showers in the immaculate bathhouse completed our recovery.

On Wednesday (the 25th) we slept in until 9 AM again, but then did as planned: in the morning Bobbi did about a week's accumulation of laundry at the nearby upscale laundromat and refueled. After lunch she washed her hair while Lew defrosted the refrigerator.

Vassar, MI
We packed up and left before 11, going down county roads 100 and 103 to the interchange at I-75. As we drove south the trees thinned out and the traffic increased uncomfortably. We experienced culture shock. We had been spoiled by northern Michigan, and once again appreciated all that the CCC had accomplished many years ago.

At the first Bay City exit, we stopped to eat lunch and refuel. Then we resumed down I-75 to the east side of Saginaw, where we exited to MI-46 and went over 20 miles east to get to the Ber-Wa-Ga-Na campground.

This campground was a big step down from all the campgrounds we had gotten used to since leaving Toledo. Most of the lots (nearly all of the shaded ones) were taken by "seasonal campers" -- that is, the trailers were fixed in place, underskirted, and never moved. Indeed, some were mobile homes. The few lots available for transients like us were in the front, in the sun, and wired with 20 amp service only. But we were lucky someone was just pulling out of a lot under a tree and with 30 amp service as we arrived, so we were able replace them on the lot. A great many children were running around, taking advantage of the pond and the extensive playground equipment. The transient lots were far from the bathhouse, which was old and in need of both cleaning (goes with the multitude of kids) and repair.

After supper we did our telephoning. Son Scott's family was visiting with his mother-in-law in the town, so on impulse he decided to come out to the campground to visit with us. The adults talked until visitors had to leave the campground (11 PM), while the children amused themselves with the dogs and the playground equipment.

Roscommon, MI
Friday morning (the 20th) Bobbi and Lew got up late as usual, but nevertheless were on the road by 11. The routing was unexciting: down MI-77 to US-2, which we took east through the pines. Almost nothing relieved the constant vista of trees on the left with Lake Michigan on our right, until we approached the bridge. Suddenly a KOA, a few gas stations and assorted eateries appeared just before we took the ramp to I-75 south.

The bridge was its usual architectural beauty set in the fabulous natural beauty where the lakes meet. We went over a bit faster than we prefer because we could not find a truck to follow (the truck speed limit is 20 mph). Still, a gorgeous sight to behold and we took it in avidly.

After the bridge, I-75 passed through the minimal community at the tip of lower Michigan -- then off into the forests again. Occasional interchanges hinted of small communities beyond, but the first real "civilization" was at Gaylord, where we pulled off long enough to restock at "Wally World", lunch at Subway, and refuel.

The exit for the Higgins Lake Family Campground was only a few miles further. We pulled off, made a couple of turns, and found the campground without difficulty. It turned out to be a gem: a variety of campsites (concrete pads, gravel, grass, with electricity, some with water, some with sewer, some with telephone -- and perhaps some with other services that I missed) set within 30 acres of forest. The bathhouse was scrupulously clean -- which is the Bobbi's basis for judging a campground. Part of the 30 acres was undisturbed except for some pleasant short trails -- perfect for long walks with the dogs. The site was level enough we did not need to unhitch. After supper, we decided to act on the Verizon technician's promise that we would have data service along I-75. But we still couldn't get a data connection on Bobbi's phone. An hour of working with some more technicians finally disclosed that there was no data service in the northern half of the lower peninsula either, even along I-75. So we would have to wait another couple of days before we have internet.

Saturday (21st) morning Lew wanted to go to the CCC Museum nearby, remembering the reputation that organization had when he was a child, and having been struck by the campground at Germfask being built on the site of one of the CCC camps. A sign on the door announced that the museum would be unable to keep regular summer hours because of the state's budget crunch -- fortunately the door was open and Lew leisurely browsed the contents -- alone.

After visiting the museum, much to Bobbi's surprise when she opted to search for a place to eat lunch, we circumnavigated Higgins Lake and found ourselves back at the campground, where we whiled away the rest of the afternoon until supper: Lew took long walks with the dogs, while Bobbi read her chick-lit. Evening was more of the same, and so to bed.

Germfask, MI
Our travels have not gone well this year. Copper Harbor was cold when we arrived (lows around 50 and highs in the low 60's). Unfortunately, Bobbi had packed well for the heat, but had left all her cold weather gear in Columbus. And added to the cold, on the evening of the 14th rain blew in. More unfortunately, it was not an occasional thundershower or even a longer drenching rain; rather, it was something between a fine drizzle and a heavy mist -- bitterly cold and penetrating.

By morning (15th) Bobbi was sneezing almost continually and her nose was running heavily as she ran through a box of tissues in short order. When she started coughing bronchitically, Lew became alarmed -- because Bobbi had had pneumonia in the past, and Copper Harbor is quite distant from even minimal medical services. So he persuaded her to let him hitch up and head farther south. By 11:30 am we were hitched up, disconnected, paraphenalia stowed, and pulled out. The park registrar, who already had been very helpful with several inquiries, was kind enough to refund our unused days without our even asking.

We headed back south on the very same highways in reverse order. As the van and the weather outside heated up, Bobbi's symptoms subsided rapidly, and about 3 pm she asked to pull into Van Ripper SP, another campground with which we had previous pleasant experience. Unlike sparsely populated Fort Wilkins, Van Ripper really was rather crowded, with few vacant sites even at 3 pm. We were lucky to get a paved pullthrough site near the bathhouse that was level enough we could just park without unhitching. A couple of minutes to plug in and install the ever-popular "Blue Boy", and we were back in business.

Bobbi turned on the heater, and within an hour an a half temperatures inside the a/s were in the 80's. While that made everyone uncomfortable, it served to dispel Bobbi symptoms completely before suppertime. We were back within cell phone territory, so after supper Bobbi made a number of contacts to explain we again were available, while Lew performed his usual chore of cleaning the dishes and his teeth. Then Bobbi and Lew watched another episode of "The Simple Life 2" TV season, and Lew walked the dogs again. Bobbi went back to reading her novels and never coughed again.

On the 16th (Monday) we did the closest thing to nothing that we could. We slept in. After walking the dogs and breakfast, Lew fell asleep again. After lunch Lew walked the dogs and did minor housework, then installed the software for internet by cell phone -- and discovered we would have no data coverage until we were near I-75 again. After supper it was walk the dogs again (quickly, before the mosquitos came out) and watch another old "Hopalong Cassidy" movie.

The 17th (Tuesday) was only slightly more ambitious. When Bobbi could not think of anything else she wanted to do in the UP, but didn't want to head into the heat of the lower peninsula, she paid for another night. After lunch and walking the dogs, Bobbi decided to resupply. This meant driving to the nearest supermarket -- 30 miles away. And again after supper Lew walked the dogs and read documents from Vatican II, while Bobbi continued to read her novels.

Wednesday and Thursday (18th and 19th) were only marginally more ambitious. We had been without an internet connection since we left Copper Harbor, and were getting concerned about our email. Bobbi found out that our host went about 12 miles to the east to the little town of Curtice between the two Manistique Lakes in order to use the library's WI-FI. So we dutifully trucked on over there both days and cleaned up our backlog. But on Thursday Bobbi bought Pizza and Jilbert's "Yooper Mudslide" and "Mackinaw Island Fudge" ice cream for a lunch. Only then did she go to the library.

On Thursday morning (19th) Lew persuaded Bobbi that she should make campground reservations, because she planned to be traveling over the weekend -- meaning the most desirable places were likely to be filled. And it was lucky he did so, because Bobbi quickly discovered that not only would her favorite campground (Hartwick Pines) be filled, but that indeed all the state parks in the northern half of the lower peninsula were going to be full. After studying her campground directories for a long time, she finally picked a private campground near Higgins Lake and secured a campsite there for two nights, then another at the campground near Vassar for the succeeding two nights. Lew hitched after supper to minimize the delay in getting out in the morning.

Ft. Wilkins SP, MI
Because we had not unhitched, on the 11th we were on the road early (for us) -- down MI-93 to I-75 which took us once again over the Straits of Mackinac bridge.


Immediately after crossing we once again took US-2 along the sandy north shore of Lake Michigan, then once again to MI-77 the few short miles to Big Cedar Campground, Kayak, and Canoe Rental at Germfask, which started as a CCC campground from 1935 to 1945. And we pulled out the digital camera that our youngest son Paul had so kindly loaned to us:






Next morning (the 12th) we were on the road even earlier, up MI-77 to MI-28 through Marquette, then US-41 through Baraga, Houghton, Hancock, Calumet, a series of depressed and progressively smaller little towns on the border of Keweenaw County, then progressively smaller abandoned little clusters of houses, and finally a multi-mile twisting arcade of trees, until we went up the last river valley and crossed a saddle over the mountains into the back of beyond -- Copper Harbor:



On the east side of the little village, Bobbi once again chose to overnight for the next five days in the east campground at Ft. Wilkins SP:






-- our favorite campground in July and August.

Today was a day of catchup -- we went into town to get on the internet, bought a pasty to share for lunch (and a little Jilbert's ice cream for dessert), took the dogs on really long walks. And we worked on our communications -- today Lew downloaded our email and found a FAX machine. Tomorrow we will have to drive to the top of Mt. Brockway to get a cell phone signal, and we will have to link with others by email. But tonight it is raining.

Copper Harbor is as we remembered it -- even better. Rather than becoming more commercialized, there actually were fewer tourists this year. Perhaps the gasoline prices did it. The best store in town was closed because it had gone bankrupt (we do feel badly for the proprietor who had tried to make it go -- and now supplies are harder to get than ever). So there is even more nothing here than in past years.

Here we sit, with water (Lake Superior) in front of us:


and water (Lake Fanny Hooe) behind us:


-- just us:


and the dogs:



and an occasional other tourist scattered among the rocks:


Part of the reason there are so few residents here is that the land cannot be farmed, due partly to the cold, and partly to the lack of soil over the rocks:


The only plants that can extract a precarious existence from the thin soil between the rocks are birches and pine trees:


-- and thimbleberries!


The only life form that actually flourishes here, whether on rocks or on living or dead wood, is lichens:


There simply is nothing else here. No cell phone service, even with our new phones (above). WI-FI is available (at least 3 hotspots) -- if you drive into town -- but Copper Harbor is way at the end of a long transmission line, so the provider is s-l-o-w.

But the bell on the harbor bouy (on the horizon below the red mark)


(telephoto shot:)


still tolls "bong-bong" all night, and all day, calling everyone to -- prayer? Meditation? Contemplation? At night there is a mandela of stars in a black sky to focus on.

As the monks of the Holy Transfiguration monastery discovered over 20 years ago, this place in itself is one gigantic retreat, the perfect place for these disciplines.

The retreat-like atmosphere is enhanced by the artefacts within the park. The bathhouses


like the restored fort itself, were constructed during the Great Depression by the WPA, from local ore-bearing rock and heavy timbers. Well-maintained over the intervening years, the result is deliciously attractive Adirondack-like interiors:




Fortunately, despite this picturesque antiquity, the plumbing has been updated and the showers are the most modern in Michigan's exemplary State Park system.

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Hartwick Pines SP, MI
Summer vacation had been scheduled with all our employers for the months of July and August. So following minimal delay for physicals for four-footed and two-footed travelers, we pulled out of Columbus on 4 July. Once again we snuck around the stop-and-go traffic on US-23 between I-270 and Delaware by going up the old Scioto Trail to US-42 and then picked up the US-23 bypass around Delaware. Then it was OH-15 and I-75 to where we picked up US-23 again at the mosque in Perrysburg. We took it up the west side of Toledo and 5 miles into Michigan, where we stopped at the Covered Wagon Camp Resort.

We had stayed at this camp a few years ago in the rain and experienced proof that it was built in an old swamp. However, this year it had not rained there for many days, so we figured we were safe. Not so. The elderly new owners clearly were not up to the task of sanitation. Most of the toilets were stopped up when we arrived, and despite employees unplugging them several times a day, continued to plug up throughout our stay. Clearly, the sewers were inadequate -- a conclusion reinforced by the odor from the leach bed. The bathrooms did not receive a badly needed general cleaning during our entire stay (remember, this was over the busy 4th of July week), paper towels ran out more than once, and one day someone removed the soap dispenser from the wall. Outside the bathhouse, the dumpster was overflowing when we arrived, and was not emptied until Monday (the 9th).

The evening we arrived there was only time for upkeep: supper, showers, put locks on the Airstream.

The next morning (5th of July) Lew phoned the first people he wanted to see: cousins Sylvia and Darlene, + Roger Rummell, an old classmate who went clear back to the first grade and Marian Wood's piano classes. Roger was out on the golf links, but we were able to leave a message with his wife Margie. Afterwards we again went in to the Ottawa Hills Memorial Park to see the graves of Lew's old neighbors, Mary Carole Spence and her parents. When Lew had finished, they went on to the Franklin Park Mall to eat lunch at Panera's and use their WI-FI. While we were there, Sylvia was the first to respond, and accepted our invitation for supper that afternoon. We had a good time visiting again with her and her husband Earl, and took them to their choice of restaurants (Bob Evans) for supper.

Friday 6 July we again went in to Panera's to use their WI-Fi and get lunch. Initially Lew had to spend a great deal of time closing out an unused credit card account whose number somone had picked up. Lew got a phone response from cousin Darlene, and they arranged to meet at the Elephant Bar Restaurant the next evening for supper. Then Lew got an email response from Roger. It seems his wife had given him our phone number with one erroneous digit, so he fell back on email. Lew phoned him back, and after considering the possibilities, he decided to come over to meet us at Panera's. We had a long and pleasant visit with him, reminiscing and updating one another for as long as Roger dared.

After Roger left, we drove over to the Toledo Memorial Park, where Lew checked out his parents' graves as well as the graves of Charlie and Lizzie Dean (1898-2002!)... and the surprising vacant spot next to them. Afterwards we went on to Woodlawn Cemetery to look up the Lindner plot, but found the office closed, and returned to the campground.

On 7 July (Saturday) Lew took Bobbi in to Woodlawn Cemetery to see his ancestral Lindners, and then went on to Forest Cemetery. But the office at the latter was closed -- open only during banker's hours. So it was back to Panera's again for WI-FI, then back to the campground for lunch. That evening, we met with cousin Darlene and her husband for a really wonderful get-aquainted meeting -- never having met before! Back at the campground, Bobbi proposed that they stay an extra day so Lew could look for his relatives in Forest Cemetery.

8 July (Sunday) was spent in the campground, except for the obligatory trip to Panera's for WI-FI and supper, followed by a re-stocking at the Sylvania Kroger.

On 9 July (Monday) Bobbi and Lew went in early to Forest Cemetery. Lew readily found his grandparents'graves, but the heat precluded any real search for any more relatives. They went on to lunch at the Franklin Park IHOP -- and Panera's again.

It was late -- almost 9 am -- when Bobbi and Lew rolled out of bed on 10 July. Lew made the bed, walked the dogs, and removed the locks from the a/s while Bobbi set out breakfast. After cleaning up, securing the loose items in the Airstream, hitching, disconnecting from the power grid, stowing the "Blue Boy", and letting the dogs into the van, we were on the road again by 11 am. The entrance ramp to US-23 was right outside the campground, and we pottered along at our usual steady 55, joining with I-75 at Flint. Civilization quit suddenly when we exited Bay City, so Bobbi didn't find a place for lunch until she told Lew to get off at West Branch and stop at a Wendy's. Refueling at the same stop, we slipped back onto the freeway.

Bobbi chose Hartwick Pines SP again for our overnight, because she had been impressed with the facilities when we stayed there past years. So shortly after 4 we pulled into the campground. We were fortunate that the site was flat enough we did not need to unhitch, so we quickly plugged in and were at home with the A/C on.

Although definately still warm and humid, even at 4 pm Hartwick Pines was not nearly so uncomfortable as Toledo was when we left it that morning. Dark clouds flitted irregularly across the evening sky, and a couple of time dumped a little water on the park while we ate supper, walked the dogs some more, and showered.

Xenia, OH
Lew was able to get in to see the psychologist on 16 May. The psychologist plotted a series of more or less weekly meetings to take the history and design a treatment program. Perhaps because the psychologist trained under George Wolpe, he decided to use a flooding technique (which gave Lew something new to be anxious about). However, when the recording was finally made and Lew used it for the first time, it became obvious that it was not going to make him as uncomfortable as he originally feared. Indeed, after just a few sessions the recording actually relaxed him!

Bobbi had committed herself to preaching at Xenia's First Lutheran Church today. Since the first service began at 8 AM, it would have been a hardship for Bobbi to get up early enough to drive over an hour to be there on time. So this became another excuse for a family outing. After mass yesterday we quickly hitched up the Airstream and arrived at Xenia just a few minutes before 8 PM, the agreed upon meeting time. However, there was no one there to meet us. We parked in the usual spot and plugged into the grid at the usual socket -- but since all the doors were locked, there was no way for us to use the rest rooms. Fortunately a phone call corrected the misunderstanding, and we dug the key out of its hiding place. So we walked the dogs and went to bed.

The next morning Bobbi was able to roll out of bed and don her clergy uniform just in time, while Lew remained in bed. He rolled out about an hour later and walked the dogs, then sat around updating files until Bobbi finished at nearly noon. She changed into more comfortable clothes and we pulled out, arrived back at Osborn Drive before 3, and parked without incident. Lew was a prisoner in Columbus again, but it was more bearable because of the two successful outings and the prospect of spending July and August in northern Michigan.

Columbus, OH
By this point Lew had become phobic about travel with the Airstream. So Bobbi and Lew decided that, in order for him to extinguish the phobia, it was important for him to go camping again as soon as possible. On the 25th (Wednesday) we loaded the rig and hitched up, then headed up the old Scioto Trail, US-42, and US-23 to the familiar campground at Maumee Bay State Park (see our previous description here)

It rained, so we idled the evening away watching a frivolous film. The next morning (26th) after a leisurely breakfast Lew unhitched, we loaded the dogs into the van, and Lew headed through the rain into the city. By noon he stopped at the Ottawa Hills Memorial Park, and with some persistence located the graves of some old neighbors from his childhood -- under two inches of water. This project completed, we stopped at a fast food restaurant on Secor Road to get lunch for ourselves and the dogs. Then we drove around the neighborhood where Lew grew up, and finished the afternoon by touring some of the older Catholic churches from his childhood (Blessed Sacrament, St. Clement's, the cathedral, St. Anthony's, St. Stanislaus, Ss. Peter and Paul, Immaculate Conception, Good Shepherd, Sacred Heart, and St. Stephens). From St. Stephen's it was just a short drive back to campground for supper. Fortunately the rain had stopped.

Friday the 27th Bobbi spent the morning shopping at the nearby "Wally World". We took the perishables back to the Airstream and took off for lunch at Tony Packo's. After lunch we continued our tour of the old Catholic churches: St. Louis, St. Francis de Sales, St. Joseph's, St. Mary of the Assumption, St. Martin de Porres (which Lew knew as St. Ann's), Gesu and St. Hyacinth, St. Charles, past Immaculate Conception again and the empty lot that used to be Our Lady of Guadelupe, past Ss. Peter and Paul again, and out Navarre Ave to St. Ignatius. In the graveyard behind St. Ignatius we found the grave of the husband of Lew's old neighbor whom we had found the previous day in Ottawa Hills Memorial Park.

Another short drive took us back to the campground for supper. In the evening another neighbor and classmate from grade school days returned Lew's phone call. So Lew had a rather long discussion about their deceased neighbor and others from the same street, as well as the general destruction of the Toledo where they had gone to school.

All this was traumatic for Lew -- seeing the graves of childhood friends, their houses occupied by strangers, the closure of once bustling churches, the devastation of old ethnic neighborhoods bulldozed for freeways or simply "urban renewal", the deterioration of most of the remaining housing even in formerly "good" neighborhoods. But he tolerated it without getting too symptomatic.

Saturday the 28th Bobbi and Lew got right up, walked the dogs, and did breakfast. Knowing they had no time to waste, they hitched quickly and hit the road. They made it back to Osborn Drive by about 1 PM, parked the Airstream and unhitched, ate lunch, and changed clothes quickly enough to get to mass with time to spare. In short, it was a successful outing, and Lew gained a little confidence back.

Columbus, OH

Lew saw the new cardiologist on Monday the 19th. The latter appeared mightily underwhelmed, continued Lew on the calcium-channel blocker, told him to exercise as much as he wanted, and asked him to report back by phone in two weeks. Lew immediately activated his old membership at the McConnell Heart Health Center (an upscale gym for worried geriatrics). And to his immense relief, at the primary care physician's direction, he returned the rhythm monitor.

Lew improved progressively with the exercise. So after spending his entire winter vacation convalescing from medication toxicity and anxiety, he went back to work 9 March. But he continued to be uncomfortably symptomatic, so returned to his primary care physician on 13 April. The primary care physician added a second antidepressant to Lew's regimen, increased the anxiolytic dose -- and referred him for Cognitive Behavioral Therapy.

Columbus, OH
Things started to get rough. It was Lew's turn to be prostrate on the 22nd. But the next day, he thought he was good enough to drive, and we made it down I-75 to the KOA in Sweetwater, TN. There was nothing remarkable about the physical facilities. However, the staff turned out to be extremely helpful and supportive over the next few days.

The next morning (23rd) dawned bright and cheery. But as Lew was walking Smokey, he collapsed. A call to 911 brought the EMT's quickly, and they expertly tended him on the short ride to the Sweetwater Hospital. It turned out that potassium loss from diarrhea the preceding few days had pushed his heart into atrial fibrillation. A very sharp ER doctor converted the rhythm with an IV bolus of ?, gave him a substantial dose of Ativan, and transferred him to a tertiary care hospital in Knoxville. The cardiologist there replaced his lost potassium, started him on a calcium channel blocker, and discharged him the next day.

Back in the campground Lew continued to feel progressively worse. By Saturday (27th) afternoon he was back in the Sweetwater Hospital ER, again in fibrillation. The ER doctor phoned the oncall cardiologist, who increased the dose of the anti-arhythmic. Meanwhile, Bobbi got on the phone and found a professional driver in McArthur OH who was willing to come to Sweetwater and drive our rig back to Columbus.

Early Monday (29th) morning Bobbi drove Lew into Knoxville to see another cardiologist recommended by the Columbus cardiologist, for another EKG. This showed medication toxicity, so the cardiologist recommended that the dose be reduced and Lew return to Columbus. Fortunately, the driver that Bobbi had hired arrived in the afternoon and got the rig and everyone back to Columbus in a single run. But when they arrived about 11:30 PM, Lew was extremely weak.

After a restless night, Lew was barely able to walk. He did not take his morning anti-ahrythmic dose, and Bobbi took him to the ER once again. This time his heart was in normal sinus rythmn, but the ER doctor admitted him to the cardiac ward anyway. There he again was put on round-the-clock electronic monitoring -- and his cardiac meds stopped. By that evening he already was feeling considerably better.

Lew continued to improve the next day, and still another cardiologist decided to discharge him on a moderate dose of the calcium-channel blocker. He made an appointment for the next day (2 February) with his primary care physician. The latter was impressed by the psychiatric aspects so added an antidepressant and low-dose anxiolytic to Lew's regimen, referred him to a different cardiologist, and gave him a monitor to wear around-the-clock for one month. Unfortunately the monitor drove his anxiety to higher levels because he could hear his EKG constantly.

Lexington, KY

Every year we complain about "the best-laid plans of mice and men". But already in 2007 medical problems have dwarfed completely any issues of preceding years. Now, we are perfectly aware that no one wants to listen to some rocking chair pilot complain about his aches and pains, but this particular travel-log could not be understood without at least a brief explanation.

As New Year's day approached, Lew thought he had everything taken care of. The Airstream had gone to the factory in December for its usual checkout, and to install a brand-new, larger refrigerator as Bobbi's Christmas gift. Tire pressures were checked. The battery was full. Both Bobbi and Lew had arranged with their employers for their two-month winter wandering.

Then it hit. The morning of January 1st youngest son Paul complained of the sudden onset of intense lower abdominal pain. Lew took him to the ER, where even the duty doctor feared appendicitis so much he gave Paul Dilaudid. But Paul was spared the knife when his problem turned out to be a particularly vicious virus.

Almost exactly one week later (the 8th) it was Bobbi's turn. We were having dinner at an old friend's home when Bobbi suddenly began vomiting explosively. By the time Lew got her home, diarrhea had set in as well. She was absolutely prostrate for three days, then made a slow recovery. And when she returned to work in the prison hospital the next Sunday, she found the virus raging through the inmate population; indeed, the facility was quarantined for three days.

Bobbi's illness had precluded her preparing/packing for travel, so a cold and rainy Monday (15th) went for that purpose, in anticipation of leaving the next day. Lew also used that morning to photograph the old OSU Student Union (where Lew spent most of his first year in medical school), scheduled for demolition during our vacation time. After lunch we both went to a nursing home to visit one of our oldest and dearest friends and Lew's mentor from 40 years earlier. Progressive heart disease, diabetes, and two forms of cancer had combined to confine him to a wheelchair, pale with severe dependent edema, visibly mortally ill. These two visits traumatized Lew severely.

Then Tuesday (16th) it was Lew's turn. He was removing the laundry from the drier when he found himself unable to stand without blacking out. So it was Bobbi's turn to drag Lew to the ER. His atrial tachycardia was converted with an IV bolus of Lopressor. The ER physician took a CT scan (with contrast) to check for pulmonary emboli, then admitted Lew to the cardiology floor of the hospital for a more complete workup. After two more days of very expensive tests (echocardiogram, carotid doppler, nucleotide stress test, and blood and EKG's without number) and round-the-clock electronic monitoring, the cardiologist discharged Lew with a prescription for an anti-arhythmic. And after a followup outpatient EKG on the next afternoon, the cardiologist cleared him to travel.

So-o-o-o, packing again on Friday afternoon and Saturday morning, we were on the road Saturday noon. We had an uneventful ride down I-71, around Cincinnati on I-275, and down I-75 to the Kentucky Horse Farm outside Lexington (see last year's travel-log for a description of this campground -- nothing has changed). We settled in routinely and ate supper -- then almost on the stroke of 7, Lew's gut exploded. Soon he was as prostrate as Bobbi had been on the 9th and 10th.

Then in the middle of the night it started to sleet, and by daylight it had turned to freezing rain. It required the greatest care simply for Bobbi to give the dogs minimal walks. With Lew ill and Bobbi never having towed, we were stuck. We considered the options: going ahead, going back, and staying where we were at. Quick phone calls to Rob and Paul told us that there was enough snow behind us to make driving dangerous -- so stay it was -- not the first time we had ridden out a storm).